汉译英
欧洲制造
除了顶级奢侈品牌外几乎所有的时尚品牌都已经在亚洲生产,或者正在考虑这幺做。美国的皮革商品制造商蔻驰(Coach)就是一个经典的例子。在过去的五年中,它通过仅在低成本市场生产来提升毛利率。在2002年的3月,它关闭了在波多黎各拉雷斯的最后一间公司所属工厂,将所有产品全部外包。
巴宝莉(Burberry)在亚洲持有许多许可授权安排。2000年它决定给日本叁洋公司的特许授权延长十年。这意味着按零售价计算巴宝莉几乎一半的销售额将是亚洲授权生产的。但是同时,日本的消费者却偏好于该集团在欧洲生产的产品。
为了应对这种对巴宝莉在亚洲工厂所生产产品的需求,叁洋公司在东京银座开设旗舰店,出售从欧洲进口的巴宝莉产品。
在《金融时报》的采访中,许多企业高管表示,顶级奢侈品牌将在亚洲越来越多地出现,就像在欧洲一样。古驰(Gucci)的多米尼克·德索尔说,无论是真是假,亚洲消费者只相信:奢侈品来自欧洲,而且一定是要在那儿生产的才是最好的。
古琦的控股公司(Pinault Printemps Redoute)的首席执行官塞格·温伯格说,公司不会将古琦的生产线移到海外。然而一些业内人士认识到,就算对顶级奢侈品牌而言,这种变化也将来临。普拉达(Prada)的首席执行官帕特里齐奥·艾特里说:“‘意大利制造’的标签很重要,但我们真正要提供的是一种风格,而风格是一种文化的展示。因此,他认识到高品质的时尚产品并非总是要在意大利生产。
欧洲工商管理学院的市场营销系的Amitava Chattopadhyay教授说:“品牌就是消费者脑海中的一系列联想,其中之一就是塬产地。对于奢侈品来说,品牌的作用是至关重要的。破坏它是一种弥天大罪,没有哪个品牌经理愿意将产地和品牌形象之间的关系搞错。”
参考译文
Made in Europe
Almost every fashion label outside the top super-luxury brands is either already manufacturing in Asia or 5 thinking of it. Coach, the US leather goods maker, is a classic example. Over the past five years, it has lifted all its gross margins by manufacturing solely in low-cost markets. In March 2002 it closed its factory in Lares, Puerto Rico, its last company-owned plant, and outsources all its products.
Burberry has many Asian licensing arrangements. In 2000 it decided to renew Sanyo's Japanese licence for ten years. This means that almost half of Burberry's sales at retail value will continue to be produced under license in Asia. At the same time however, Japanese consumers prefer the group's European-made products.
Sanyo is now reacting to this demand for a snob alternative to the Burberry products made in its factories across Asia by opening a flagship store in Tokyo's Ginza, where it sells Burberry products imported from Europe.
In interviews with the FT, many executives say the top luxury brands will continue to be seen, particularly in Asia, as European. Domenico De Sole of Gucci says: “The Asian consumer really does believe - whether it's true or not - that luxury comes from Europe and must be made there to be the best.”
Serge Weinberg, Chief Executive of Pinault Printemps Redoute, which controls Gucci, says it will not move Gucci's production offshore. Yet some in the industry recognize that change may be round the corner even for the super-luxury brands. Patrizio Bertelli, Chief Executive of Prada, says: 'The "Made in Italy" label is important but what we are really offering is a style, and style is an expression of culture.' He therefore recognizes that quality fashion items may not always need to be produced in Italy.
Amitava Chattopadhya. Professor of Marketing at Insead, the business school. says: A brand is a set of associations in the mind of the consumer and one of these is the country of origin. For luxury goods, the role of the brand is crucial. To damage it is a cardinal sin and no brand manager will want to get the balance between manufacturing location and the brand image wrong.
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